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Vogue Singapore's incisive 10-word runway reviews for the key shows at Milan Fashion Week

10-word show review: A romantic disintegration as seen in a post-apocalyptic world. Designer: Glenn Martens Location: Allianz Cloud, Milan

The vision: A definite defibrillator moment at Diesel as Glenn Martens brought the fading label back to life with his fingers pressed firmly on the pulse of youth culture and the integral juncture where fashion is currently at. The show opened in front of a strong crowd that consisted of art students, die-hard fanatics and fashion eccentrics looking for the next new proposition.

The vibe: Aggressively sexy humanoids entangled in a suggestive, almost Kama Sutra-like position spanned across the length of the Allianz Cloud stadium—breaking the Guinness World Record for the world’s largest inflatable sculpture—setting the stage for a mix of heart-racing sirens and fierce, thumping beats that brought an indurate stride to the catwalk.

Signature silhouettes: Newness was what we got as pieces of denim were etched down to look like they had been left out to rot, leaving a lace-like weave underneath (Look 1). Proportions were supersized and cargo pants, reconstructed to look like armour (Look 17). Denim was cleverly made to look like fur (Look 27) and the metallic coats (Look 50) left an effortlessly cool vibe that was wicked.

Who is it for: The fashion die-hard who’s unafraid to try new proportions or clashing textures all at once—in a single outfit.

10-word show review: Youthful spirit of Y2K for the sophisticated woman of now. Designer: Kim Jones Location: Via Solari 35, Milan

The vision: The cool aesthetics of Y2K but set in perhaps, Tokyo, where slinky ribbed knits, glossy cargo pants, platform wedges, oriental blooms (also spotted in his last couture show) and that Japanese obi detail at the back of his jackets ruled the runway. Kim Jones’s fascination with the great Orient and his love for pop culture shone ever so brightly through the choice of his silhouettes, colours and proportions.

The vibe: The thumping beats of a sub-culture classic, ‘Passion’ by Gat Décor, got everyone in the front row grooving to the rhythm as the models walked through the show space—categorised into three important colours: dusty blue, bright burnt orange and jade green.

Signature silhouettes: Jones’s love for menswear lives on in the incredibly tailored jackets; some fastened close with a drape that ends at the back with an Obi (Look 39). Proportions are contrasting as slinky knits are paired with big slouchy cargos (Look 29) and dramatic wrap skirts sit atop pants in light-catching metallics (Look 36). Fluid dressing is the name of the game here.

What to shop from the collection: The ribbed dress in kelly green, the platform slippers and iridescent silver cargos will give both the brand’s loyal clientele and Gen Z a run for their money.

10-word show review: The ultimate Yin and Yang where fashion and sportswear coexist. Designer: Andrea Pompilio Location: Via Valtellina, Milan

The vision: Modern separates that consist of lightweight tank tops, floaty T-shirts with attached capes, bubble bloomer shorts held together by drawstrings and multi-pocketed parkas in monochromatic shades of ivory, kelly green, marigold and sable black, kept the edits tight while lending an almost contemporary feel to the overall look and feel of the clothes.

The vibe: A long walk into the old Farini station at Via Valtellina, where the majestic hallways of the former Central station of Milan echoed the hypnotic drum beats of an electro synth-pop track.

Signature silhouettes: Clean and simple shapes with clever ruche details created by a simple tug of drawstrings as seen on wide-legged pants and shift dresses. The perennial tracksuits this season are washed in shades of marigold and kelly green—making them ultra-desirable especially when their cut is generously balanced out by the smart use of liquid-like tech fabrics that create plenty of movement. Sportswear under the masterful hands of Pompilio has never looked this chic.

Who is it for: Great for the comfort seekers who subscribe to the idea of wearing their sportswear into the office or onto the plane. What to shop from the collection: The must-haves from this collection have to be the built-in capes that appeared on the T-shirts and button-down blouses.

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